For the record you can never technically call a family vacation a 'Surf Trip' - and I've known this! Even if the whole family surfs, eventually the wife and kids will demand a break from the constant search...from all the gear...from all the risks taken to score an empty surf break chasing 3rd hand information. And even IF you score that empty, firing break it still comes with all the unknowns: Why isn't anybody else out? Is it sharky? Is it shallow reef? Crazy currents? Private access with ornery locals? Surfers understand and appreciate that it's not just scoring waves, but it's also the excitement of the search and the cumulative reward of all the small discoveries along the journey...
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| Coconut palms patch found on the backside of Honolua Bay, Maui's NW corner |
